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  • Nicole Phelps

Fall 2018 Ready-to-Wear Emilio Pucci

Fall is Emilio Pucci’s second runway season operating without a creative director. There are rumors about who might be incoming, but nothing has been made official by the LVMH-owned house. Charged with keeping the label moving along apace, the design team looked to Pucci’s American connection for Fall, a lesser-known aspect of a brand more closely associated with the European jet set.

Marilyn Monroe was an avid Pucci collector. In fact, in the last known paparazzi photographs of her, she was wearing a lime green boatneck silk T-shirt by Pucci. Here, the actress’s simple tee was reinterpreted as a coral-colored jersey T-shirt dress worn straight to the floor, with two strips of Pucci print tracing the zipper in back. It looked regal in the most laidback of ways. Diana Vreeland, an American by association via her editorships at Harper’s Bazaar and Vogue, apparently once advised Pucci to show his slips as dresses. That was an utterly radical idea at the time, but it’s become common today; the design team’s new version with inset chevrons of lace looked more trendy than throwback.

The collection nodded at other trends of the moment as well, including souped-up puffers of many kinds and a blanket coat, cape, and skirtsuit with the house logo woven into the fabric. Ironically, what proved trickiest for the design team were the house’s signature prints, which came across with not enough sophistication. Head-to-toe print is never easy, but it was made more challenging here by heavy diamond quilting and mismatched patterns. Whoever nabs the big gig at Pucci, a mastery of print should be at the top of the job description.

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