• TIZIANA CARDINI

RESORT 2020 Emilio Pucci

The Emilio Pucci spirit is characterized by easy sophistication, slightly blasé and nonchalant; a summer-loving flair for holidays on private yachts and secluded beaches, for alfresco lunches in elegant seaside villas. For Resort, the label’s creative team, which has been designing the collection for a few seasons now, tapped into this notion of luxurious wanderlust. This season the globetrotting Pucci woman opted for a trip to Polynesia, as seen through the saturated colors and exotic atmospheres of Paul Gauguin’s paintings, which were translated into rich, abstract prints. The place’s lush vegetation and its bold-patterned textiles were the compelling visual backbone of the collection.

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The offer, which looked edited and slightly condensed compared to previous proposals, was built around versatile pieces that transition from day to night. A printed dress in silk jersey made famous by Marilyn Monroe was reimagined as a long-sleeve T-shirt minidress, embellished with sequined fringes conveying a liquid, shimmering feel. It’d look good paired with denim pants for day, or with bare legs and heels for a night out.

Outerwear in solid colors (shorts-suits with elongated blazers, and cape coats and trench coats in shades of sand white, deep-sea blue, and coral) was introduced to rhythmically break the bold intensity of the printed surfaces of short chiffon dresses and billowing caftans, silk twill pajama suits, and full-circle skirts paired with matching tops. The slim, neat silhouette was counterbalanced by a pleated tulle skirt, decorated with colorful printed silk-twill ribbons and paired with a T-shirt knitted in thin lurex, or by a long evening dress in silver fil coupé, ruched on the sides and printed in delicate pastel hues.

Beachwear was a consistent proposal, as it should be at a label with a flair for upscale leisure à la Slim Aarons. Flattering one-piece swimsuits and tiny bikinis came printed and three-dimensionally embellished, worn under glamorous caftans in see-through lace or with pareo-inspired wrapped skirts. Pucci’s strong points were reworked in a more streamlined, concise way here. It could be a positive step for the label’s future. In order to be relevant to younger customers, it needs to focus on a cohesive creative vision, blending a modern, pragmatic approach with its unique heritage for luxurious joie de vivre.

https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2020/emilio-pucci