- Rachel Cheung
Loewe pushes fantasy to the edge
Jonathan Anderson fuses psychedelia and the whimsy of childhood for his Fall/Winter 2020 collection.
From fur-trimmed cuffs to sequined shoulders, asymmetrically draped fabrics, and Elephant bags in new colorways, Jonathan Anderson presents a unique range of menswear for Loewe Fall/Winter 2020. The Spanish house created an innovative collection, bringing “motion and tension, with a sense of optimism pushed to an obscure edge” to the runway. Featuring themes of boyhood and childhood dress up, Anderson played with forms and textures, juxtaposing them with varying degrees of shine, curves, and materials.
Redefining traditional notions of couture menswear, Loewe presents geometric patterns in longline silhouettes, ruched metallic fabrics, extravagant hats, and a reoccurring pair of oversized square-framed sunglasses in both red and black. Sleeves are elongated across the collection, and capes are transformed into equestrian-like coats in muted army green and navy. A cape-poncho garment makes an appearance in a black and white psychedelic pattern, following the overall collection’s longline form in its knee-length cut. A shimmer motif frequents several of the pieces in the form of intricately placed crystals on loafers and boots and splattered across shoulders and sleeves of lavender and butter-yellow knitwear. Introducing new variants of their traditional leather accessories, Loewe’s iconic jumbo Elephant bag is redone in crystal-embellished black, bright yellow, and muted cool-toned grey. The notion of opulence is evoked from the luxurious construction of the looks, exploring the idea of functionality for elegance and the power of self-expression.
Each look evokes a different style, creating a broad spectrum of expression within a singular menswear collection. Glamour is a theme throughout, reoccurring in the form of unique pieces that curve, glisten, and move elegantly. This Loewe man represents a luxurious sartorial future unrestricted by the dwindling relevance of traditional gender presentation and unapologetic in its indulgence of fantasy.