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  • LUISA ZARGANI

Bally RTW Spring 2024

Simone Bellotti delivered a collection that was in sync with the quiet luxury trend.



Outside the Bally venue it was anything but quiet, with fans of newly tapped brand ambassador singer DK of K-pop boyband Seventeen showing their love. But inside, Simone Bellotti delivered a collection that was in sync with the quiet luxury trend — all about sleek tailoring, understated chicness and respect for heritage.


Under the arches of the cloister of the San Simpliciano basilica, some of the looks were almost monastic — cue the rigorous, buttoned-up dark blue pantsuit worn over the flat Glendale mary jane-style shoes or the dark trench with a wrapover stand collar, which were worn by both the men and women models.


However, under a severe and beautifully tailored leather coat peeked a short taffeta dress out of which pleats seemed to sprout forming floral motifs, while a polka-dot miniskirt was worn under a sleeveless biker jacket. This reflected Bellotti’s wish to show unexpected touches “that are somehow out of control.” In a preview interview, the designer said he wanted to overturn the “idea of Switzerland as something extremely precise — think watches, banks — but there are so many other layers, more irrational and organic.”


Practical briefcases and large leather totes were shown in black but also in bright red — a tribute to the main color of the Swiss flag, he said — but, also unexpectedly in a pattern of strawberries and flowers. These also decorated swimsuits and short dresses in leather — a core expertise of the brand.


Denim looks had a vague ‘70s feel, worn under cozy ribbed sweaters or a vintage-looking leather vest with epaulettes. While he didn’t exactly reference the hippy movement, Bellotti was also inspired by the Monte Verità community near Ascona, Italy, founded there in the early 20th century, “dancing in the sun, looking for a different way to express themselves, free minds running away from the stress of industrialization,” he said.


No running away for Bellotti here. On the contrary, he fully embraced the task at hand — his first collection was in tune with Bally’s 172-history while cleverly and clearly moving it forward.






https://wwd.com/runway/spring-2024/milan/bally/review/

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