- Sandra Salibian
Emilio Pucci Resort 2023
Camille Miceli unveiled an encyclopedic, flamboyant collection that will be celebrated next month in St. Moritz.
Emilio Pucci Resort 2023COURTESY OF EMILIO PUCCI
Ski suits and swimwear, everyday essentials and partywear, bold prints and monochrome looks, puffy volumes and body-conscious silhouettes: the work Camille Miceli is pushing at the artistic direction of Emilio Pucci stretches like an elastic band in multiple directions, yet always maintains the essence of the brand.
Anchoring this flexibility is her vision, which repositioned the label as a resort-focused brand, honoring its origins. She also made it see now, buy now, staging grand experiences that put the clothes in the lifestyle context she wanted to evoke. She first brought the fashion crowd to Capri, where the brand’s founder opened his initial boutique in 1951, and next month Miceli will present this collection at the glamorous slopes of St. Moritz — an equally important destination since Pucci brought a style revolution there in 1947 with his colorful skiwear.
“Pucci is a trip — a trippy trip,” said Miceli, whose bubbly personality breaks through even during a Zoom call. Her role in the journey? Helping the Pucci woman pack a versatile suitcase that could serve both winter weekends and tropical getaways as well as special occasions at every latitude.
For resort 2023, Miceli channeled Pucci’s heritage into ski suits, nylon puffers and anoraks splashed with the Marmo print in different shades, including blue hues that also decorated frilled bikinis, one-piece swimsuits and pareos. In between, tennis-inspired looks were further testament to the active lifestyle of Pucci clients.
In keeping with the attitude, daywear staples such as printed silk shirts were juxtaposed with partywear, including monochrome evening gowns with cut-outs, beaded t-shirt dresses with a texturized appeal, long fringed options with a festival vibe and unexpected gold leather pieces, including a motocross bolero.
The combination of different silhouettes further energized the lineup. Working with rounded shapes, which “evoke a certain gentleness and warmth,” Miceli included balloon skirts and shirts with puffy sleeves that added a frivolous touch. The blown-up volumes were made bolder via colorful patterns like the Rombi print and offset by body-conscious looks, such as knitted frocks stretching over the body and second-skin crop tops.
It was a packed collection but breaking it down, most pieces still reconnected with the founder, including striped and hand-painted motifs from the archives.
Miceli themes her collections after her starting points, such as “La Piazzetta” in her previous effort and “La Famiglia” now. The choice emphasizes the sense of community she aims to build around the brand and its multi-generational target. This time, Miceli further expanded the audience as she introduced men’s and genderless pieces, spanning from wide black gabardine trousers to printed boxy shirts.