top of page
  • SANDRA SALIBIAN

Emilio Pucci RTW Fall 2023

Camille Miceli looked at the stars for inspiration but aimed to bring the Emilio Pucci brand back to the streets via bold patterns and uncomplicated silhouettes.



Continuing the tradition of titling her collections after evocative names, Pucci’s artistic director Camille Miceli dubbed her latest see now, buy now effort “Supernova,” as she looked to outer space as the ultimate fantasy of escapism.


It’s not entirely uncharted territory for Miceli, who already referenced the moon and nodded to the Apollo 15 emblem the brand’s founder designed for the mission’s astronauts in 1971 in the spring collection she paraded in Florence earlier this year. While the fall collection kept with that creative exploration and same ’60s Space Age vibe, the title better expressed the collision of different patterns and textures Miceli worked into the lineup.


The designer emphasized the label’s signature graphic quality by scaling up psychedelic prints, tweaking familiar patterns in different sizes, and adding some unexpected touches with the introduction of floral motifs for a dash of romanticism, as well as the use of flag-inspired prints that nodded to the Palio di Siena horse race.


Yet Miceli managed to tame flamboyancy by deploying total white or black looks as palate-cleansers and mostly working with uncomplicated silhouettes that could appeal to the trans-generational audience the brand is increasingly gravitating toward. Shapes ranged from a plethora of body-conscious jersey silhouettes to billowing caftans; from the short hems of ’60s-inspired minidresses to the elongated lines of column frocks, and from mannish velvet suits to easy-to-approach separates.


A lover of contrasts, Miceli also played with different fabrications, alternating second-skin meshes with the fluffiness of bold yeti boots and faux-fur vests, or the reflective surface of cocooning outerwear with the clear PVC of a raincoat cheekily worn over a teeny tiny bikini. The overall result was as ebullient as the designer’s personality.


Even with all the Space Age nods, Miceli said her goal was to eventually bring Pucci back to the streets and reclaim the brand’s role in an everyday wardrobe. To echo this intention, the company will continue to promote its collections via experiential events, only this time will leave the glam getaways of Capri and Saint Moritz behind to touch base in different cities throughout the winter.


“We want people to really [see] Pucci also as a brand that you can wear in Milan, Paris, London or New York, and not only something you wear when you’re at the beach or on the slopes,” Miceli said.








https://wwd.com/runway/fall-2023/milan/emilio-pucci/review/

Comments


bottom of page