The encyclopaedic-minded designer’s newest collection is a seamless combination of past, present and future.
If interweaving the past and present were an art form, Kim Jones would be a modern master. The Dior Men designer, who’s known for his ability to shape the ever-changing spirit of men’s fashion, has pushed boundaries at the House since he began his tenure there four years ago. In relentless pursuit of the eternally cool Dior man – someone who’s modern and forward-thinking and isn’t afraid to reference the brand’s storied past – he’s magicked up what’s possibly his coolest collection yet.
Jones may have been reserved in his use of colour at his autumn/winter ’22/’23 show, but the collection wasn’t devoid of personality. The asymmetrical blazers, a high point of many Jones of his collections, were reinvented in different colourways, and like with much of his Dior Men designs, comfort took precedence. An ease-of-wear was visible in loose virgin wool formal trousers, shearling-adorned jackets, and even Birkenstocks; the comfortable German outdoor shoe was Dior-ified for a special appearance this season.
This isn’t the first time Jones has collaborated with a cult shoe brand; few footwear aficionados could forget his highly collectable Dior x Air Jordan sneakers, Jones’s eye for commerciality is undeniable, and it’s unlikely that any of his prized footwear collaborations will decline in value over the years.
Other collection highlights came in the form of streamlined leather jackets with an edge, as well as floral motifs and garden-inspired embroidery on handbags and sweaters.
When he’s not designing, Jones spends time at his quaint country house in Sussex, which might’ve had something to do with the collection’s gentle florals. Outfits were accentuated with crystal necklaces and bracelets – a visible precursor to Jones’s newly-released collaboration with Ye-approved designer Eli Russell Linnetz, who continues Jones’s love of male jewellery.
Most boundary-breaking about Jones’s Dior man is his fearlessness when it comes to androgynous wardrobe tropes. Instead of veering from Dior’s history as a women’s brand, Jones pays homage to the silhouettes that made the Maison one of the most famous labels in the world.
The brand’s ‘Saddle’ bag was slung over the shoulder instead of being worn across the body, the ‘Oblique’ monogram print was turned into a large tote bag to be carried under the arm, and the Cannage stitching from the brand’s Lady Dior handbag was featured on one of the collection’s durable leather coats. Milliner Stephen Jones, who’s fashioned Dior’s hats for 25 years, created the collection’s hard-edged berets, which became one of the menswear season’s most coveted accessories.
In a stroke of luck for Australian clients, Dior Men’s latest venture brings the sophisticated energy of autumn/winter ’22/’23 to our shores. For the first time, Dior Men will be available in Brisbane at a pop-up in QueensPlaza, from 1 September to 12 October. Clients can book appointments for private consultations at the store and take their pick from the collection’s standout pieces.
During Jones’s time at Dior, he’s presented exuberant collaborations with everyone from artist Hajime Sorayama to Shawn Stüssy, but through autumn/winter ’22, he proves that sometimes a simple, artisanal approach is the best one.