Gildo Zegna on Generational Shift at Ermenegildo Zegna Group
- Luisa Zargani
- Dec 2
- 5 min read
Stepping into the role of executive chairman on Jan. 1, Zegna explains the reasons behind the strategic decisions that leave the floor to his sons Edoardo and Angelo, as well as Gianluca Tagliabue.
Angelo Zegna, Gildo Zegna, Gianluca Tagliabue and Edoardo Zegna. courtesy image
MILAN — A generational handover must be planned “bravely, when you are in good health, and have the right energy,” believes Gildo Zegna.
In an interview on the succession plan Ermenegildo Zegna Group revealed on Monday, Zegna said, “It’s important to leave the floor to the younger generation, and while I will remove myself from the day-to-day operations, I will continue to be available to contribute with my views on strategies.”
The plan goes into effect on Jan. 1 and Zegna will switch to executive chairman from chairman and chief executive officer.
Expressing his pride in mapping out the plan with the full support of the board and of his family, Zegna said: “One of the most important responsibilities of a leader is to think ahead — to prepare for the future and empower the next generation of leadership. This belief has always been deeply rooted in our family values.”
Zegna, who’s led the group since 2006, turned 70 on Sept. 30. “I always had this target in mind and started working on the plan two years ago, and more actively over the past year,” he explained.
Gianluca Tagliabue, currently chief financial officer, will take on the role of CEO of the group.Gildo Zegna’s sons Angelo and Edoardo, members of the family’s fourth generation, will become co-CEOs of the Zegna brand and report to Tagliabue.
Edoardo Zegna, 39, is currently chief marketing and digital officer of Zegna as well as group chief sustainability officer, and will lead all aspects of brand strategy, from brand image to marketing, and, together with Zegna’s artistic director Alessandro Sartori, design matters, including store design.
Angelo Zegna, 37, currently CEO of Zegna’s Europe, Middle East and Africa region and global event strategy director, will oversee product development, merchandising and commercial strategy, driving performance across markets and channels.
Angelo and Edoardo Zegna
Asked about his sons’ talents, Zegna said they are “complementary and naturally balance each other out. They don’t compete with one another. Edoardo is more extroverted and very rational, Angelo is more execution-driven. They will play for the team with no ego. They have a clear vision and they will continue the family legacy, having demonstrated their business leadership over the past years. Together, they will not only carry forward the brand’s timeless heritage, but strengthen it further.”
Gian Franco Santhià, currently group control and chief accounting officer, will be appointed as group CFO, reporting to Tagliabue.
About Tagliabue, who is 57, Zegna said “over the past decade, Gianluca has been a cornerstone of our group, leading the company through key transformations.” He praised his loyalty and commitment for over 10 years.
“I have seen him in action in tough and stressful moments and that’s when you see the value of people. We have worked arm-in-arm and I know he thinks long-term in the interest of the group. He is solid and ethical, a man of quality, who never loses his cool and can hold the reins and support [Angelo and Edoardo].”
Tagliabue was previously chief operating officer, overseeing the supply chain, a key position for Zegna. “To have a person that is knowledgeable about the pipeline and the industry is very important,” the outgoing CEO said. “He will know how to integrate Thom Browne and Tom Ford Fashion in the group, which still have strong untapped growth potential across the markets, sharing services and systems.” For example, he hinted at a “project on AI that is being tested with Zegna and will then passed on to the other two brands.” Admitting he also looked outside the group for candidates, he realized he preferred to promote Tagliabue, an in-house talent.
In his new role as executive chairman, Zegna will continue to oversee the group’s textile platform, the foundations of the company. “I feel this is really my territory, and I am very proud of our history,” he said.
As well as the group’s textile division, he will oversee the group general counsel’s office (including internal audit), and the external relations department, which encompasses sustainability, investor relations and corporate communications.
The executive has been instrumental in shaping the Zegna group into an international powerhouse with 2024 sales of 1.94 billion euros; taking control of the Thom Browne brand in 2018; working with Zegna’s artistic director Alessandro Sartori on the One Brand strategy, inking a long-term agreement with the Estée Lauder Cos. Inc. in 2023 for the production and distribution of the Tom Ford Fashion label, and publicly listing the group on the New York Stock Exchange in December 2021.
“My agenda until the end of the year has back-to-back commitments but one must be mindful of one’s health. I look forward to dedicating some time to my private life, which I have neglected — and also to Oasi Zegna,” he said of the nature reserve created by the founder of the company. Skiing, one of his passions of a lifetime, is also high on the list.
Asked about mapping out strategies and whether additional acquisitions could be in the cards, Zegna said he felt the need to first consolidate the existing brands and then “if everything works well, why not, but I believe more in the industrial challenges, protecting the supply chain. We need to continue to invest in people, machines and technology. We feel we are custodians and protectors of the pipeline.”
Over the years, Zegna has built the group’s supply chain and invested in the pipeline. In addition to its own Lanificio Zegna, the group’s textile supply chain includes Tessitura di Novara, Bonotto and Dondi, all acquired. It has a controlling stake in Pelle Tessuta, which specializes in the weaving of leather, and bought a majority stake in Cappellificio Cervo, a historic men’s hat brand based in Biella. The group is building a new luxury footwear and leather goods production facility in Sala Baganza, near Parma. It also teamed with the Prada Group in acquiring stakes in cashmere specialist Filati Biagioli Modesto and knitwear company Luigi Fedeli e Figlio.
The market’s been expecting some kind of change.
In a research note, Jefferies said it had been monitoring Zegna’s potential succession plan and “leadership shake-up” for a while and that, “amid the debate” over whether Angelo or Edoardo Zegna would succeed their father, “the decision to appoint them as co-CEOs delivers the best of both worlds. We expect the execution of [full-year 2027] guidance will remain intact under the new leadership.”
The bank said that one of the two sons was “always expected to become” CEO of the Zegna brand.
“Recently, expectations leaned toward Angelo, who is based in Milan (vs. Edoardo in London) and who has greater visibility amongst investors. Angelo’s hands-on experience and Edoardo’s broader divisional expertise creates a well-balanced leadership mix.”
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