Kris Van Assche hits his stride with Berluti's upbeat menswear collection
High in energy and lively shades, Berluti’s spring 2021 collection is an ode to the Maison’s artisanship and know-how.
Inspired by his recent work of reupholstering and restoration - with patinated Berluti Venezia leather - of Pierre Jeanneret’s original furniture from the Le Corbusier-designed Indian city of Chandigarh, Creative Director Kris Van Assche has created a palette of earthy reds, lively blues and deep purples reminiscent of the natural colours found in the Northern Indian state of Punjab.
Shapes are generous and graphic, with structured shoulders and long tapered or pleated trousers. Worn over colourful second skin turtleneck tops, oversized, short-sleeved shirts are striped or printed over silk with a paisley motif blended with Berluti’s logo.
Suits give a subtle nod to the 1970’s through double-breasted jackets and houndstooth or Prince of Wales fabrics. Berluti’s logo and crest are overblown over cotton jacquard sweaters, and knitted polo shirts combine stripes and motifs in audacious colour mixes.
This season, a dozen of the ready-to-wear collection pieces will be available in smaller sizes so as to give women the possibility of picking and choosing their favourite pieces from the Berluti man’s wardrobe.
Leather is patinated in striking tones inspired by Jeanneret’s patinas: an exceptionally soft bonded nubuck leather shirt takes on a lively Shaded Orange colour. A down parka with a Brown Ebano patina blurs the lines between tradition and modernity. And a grained deer duffle coat has a shaded effect around the edges.