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  • Cécilia Pelloux

In Paris, Dior Men Winter 2023 Celebrates The Legacy Of Yves Saint Laurent

Fashion is an art and where else than in Paris could it be proved. From January 16 to 22, 2023 fashion houses presented their 2023 fall winter men collections, the week right before haute couture. Men fashion market is in high demand and men’s fashion shows have become an interesting creative laboratory, reflecting how a wardrobe can evolve along with our society. When haute couture is the ultimate rendez vous of celebrities and wealthy clients, today men Fashion week also has its VIP’s roster, Hollywood actors and of course K-Pop stars.



For this Winter 2023 men Fashion week, 48 fashion shows and 33 presentations happened in the French capital. Dior men show is one of the most awaited, closing the week. “The cycle of a fashion house is about regeneration and rejuvenation, just like the cycle of fashion itself. There is always something of the past in the present and future and Dior is no different. In this collection, we wanted to look at the regeneration of the house after the death of Mr Dior, and its rejuvenation with Yves Saint Laurent -his chosen heir- drawing a parallel in literature, through imagery and themes in the waste land. It is where an old world meets a new one, in change and in flux” detailed Kim Jones about the collection this season.



Inside a darkened giant tent installed just for the show right on Place de la Concorde, guests were invited to watch Hollywood stars Robert Pattinson and Gwendoline Christie performing The Waste Land, T. S Eliot’s monumental poem on giant screens. It is not the first time Kim Jones has used literature as a springboard for a collection, the designer already used Virginia Wolf and Jack Kerouac. Could literature bring the new generations -who love K-Pop stars- a more intellectual approach to the fashion world?



On the 30th of January 1958, Yves Saint Laurent presented his first collection for Dior. And as Kim Jones pointed out “the fashion world was changed once more”. Yves Saint Laurent just turned 21 when he succeeded Mr Dior at his death in 1957. Kim Jones took his inspiration from Yves Saint Laurent’s first Dior couture spring summer collection. On the podium, a combination of readapted feminine and masculine codes. British tailoring meets haute couture for a combination of formal and informal “tailleur”.

WOODSTOCK, UNITED KINGDOM - NOVEMBER 11: The House of Christian Dior will present its Paris winter ... [+]


A metamorphosis of the fisherman sweater reinvented by Yves Saint Laurent for Dior, cocoon coats or draped knits and tweed kilts. Fluidity, water was all about this collection referring to the Waste Land poem, the moody backdrop, a dry land where nothing could grow. Brown, grey silhouettes on the podium where new pieces such as 3D printed shoes and boots extend the house savoir faire. The saddle bag, an icon of Dior is worn discreetly combined with masculine skirts, chunky cable sweaters or zipped open sleeves. Discretion, elegance and precision an echo of Yves saint Laurent’s striving for modern simplification.


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