Kenzo Women’s Fall 2025: Pulling a Rabbit Out of the Hat
- Miles Socha
- Mar 12
- 2 min read
The brand's first dedicated women's show in eight years debuted a quirky new direction, tilted to tailoring mixed with streetwear elements.
Bunny slippers? Gauzy harem pants? Lingerie spilling out from jean waistbands and mohair shorts? And Sex Pistols, Patti Smith and Blondie on the soundtrack?
This Kenzo show hit different — the mosh-pit hair, New Era baseball caps and checkerboard motifs transmitting more of a streetwear vibe — and a British accent distinct from the brand’s recent focus on interplays between late Japanese fashion designer Kenzo Takada and the French capital.
The LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton-owned house recently assembled a new womenswear studio under creative director Nigo, led by Joshua A. Bullen, a Brit who was previously a design director for ready-to-wear at Givenchy.
He brought elements of punk, humor and Savile Row tailoring for fall, marking the first time the brand staged a dedicated women’s show in eight years. Low-slung furniture and tables laden with sweets were brought into the brand’s Rue Vivienne headquarters, bringing to mind Andy Warhol’s Factory.
Showing off a mood board featuring David Bowie, Johnny Rotten, The Damned and other figures of yore, Bullen noted that Nigo was an early collector of Vivienne Westwood designs and her Seditionaries label, and once played in a band called the Tokyo Sex Pistols.
“It’s not so much about the clothing, but it’s more about the energy that punk brings to a collection,” he said.
Roomy, shawl-collared tuxedo jackets in black, ivory and pale pink anchored many of the looks, and they slowly morphed into kimono jackets. Paired with the roomy, low-slung harem pants, looks exuded an appealing tomboy allure.
“Borrowing your boyfriend’s clothes, but then customizing them,” Bullen said, by way of explaining the skimpy lingerie-style shorts and tops that formed the sexier flip side to this quirky, uneven collection.
The display climaxed with fuzzy pink bunny hoodies, complete with floppy ears; a bonkers coat complete with a cotton tail, and those bunny slippers in a slingback construction.
Bullen didn’t take a bow, nor did Nigo, who couldn’t be in Paris because of a commercial obligation.
On the way out, guests were handed a T-shirt and crayons in a metallic envelope festooned an ecstatic bunny character that seems to have replaced the tiger as Kenzo’s new emblem. Will women hop to it?
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