• Erwann Chevalier

Loewe grows plants on the pieces of its Spring-Summer 2023 men’s collection

Since 2013, head of Loewe’s artistic direction Jonathan Anderson has been redefining a look that is both playful and meaningful. For this Spring-Summer 2023 menswear collection, the 37- year-old Irishman, who also is the artistic director of his own label JW Anderson, has focused on paradoxical notions as a creative thread – the real and digital reproduction, nature and technology, the fusion of the organic and of the manufactured. In a virginal white space, silhouettes are unveiled as much as the surprising technical processes used for this season. Reworking in controlled shapes and cuts a wardrobe of essentials available in a range of neutral colors, the bombers, hoodies, and polo shirts echo the shirts, shorts, and waxed jackets, which introduce several processes improved in collaboration with Spanish designer Paula Ulargui Escalona. While a coat is covered with screens, other pieces merge with nature. Surprisingly enough, plants have been grown on trousers, coats, jumpers, and shoes even. Although it took twenty days to reach the desired level of growth, the poetic incorporation of nature in a “man- made” collection leaves us wondering about our fashion consumption and our relationship with nature.