- LUKE LEITCH
Moncler 2 1952
SPRING 2021 MENSWEAR
Broadly speaking, in this collection Sergio Zambon articulated the contemporary language of Moncler through his consideration of liberal-pacifist dress codes of the 1970s. Those codes emerged as a reaction to dubiously motivated military actions of the time, and there were gentle references to that starting point in khaki cargo skorts—yes, skorts—and a 1952 uniform in opaque olive ripstop that was also, Zambon said via Zoom, a nod to apiculture and gardening.
Moncler’s 1952 origins in Monestier-de-Clermont, Grenoble, were reflected in the geographically specific print on an opening parka, as well as the GPS coordinates on some of the garments. Shod in ’70s-style sneakers, the collection descended to sea-level—Life’s a Beach–bright florals, abstracted leis of nylon blossom—through a brand-essential basecamp of mid-weight down jackets with nehru collars in pungently powerful colorways. The “neo-hippie” context was underlined by generously hemmed flares and ashram-appropriate slogans including Maintain Serenity With Strength and Purpose. Zambon expanded on the origins of this collection to say it was designed in the first weeks of last spring’s Italian lockdown, a context that had informed both the majority sustainable fabrication of its material substance and its counter-cultural inspiration. Boomers might get a bad press these days, but back in the day the best of them anticipated—and even offered answers to—many of the problems we face today. This mindful Moncler collection was a reminder of meaningful mantras from the past and contained multiple pieces you’d feel deeply at peace to possess.