The Dior spring 2024 ready-to-wear campaign. TINA BARNEY/COURTESY OF DIOR
THEATER OF FASHION: Maria Grazia Chiuri’s spring show for Dior was all about challenging the male gaze, with an immersive set by Italian artist Elena Bellantoni flashing feminist messages. For the advertising campaign, she turned once again to a female creative, American photographer Tina Barney.
Known for her forensic portraits of her affluent milieu, Barney snapped models Rosanna Ovalles, Honey Ordonez, Mauve Dupuy and Alice McGrath in seemingly unguarded moments at odds with the stereotypically sexualized attitudes of many fashion campaigns.
They are standing or sitting in an opulent apartment with deep red walls, consistent with the lavish homes where Barney usually finds her subjects. Represented by the Kasmin gallery in New York City, the photographer has previously lensed campaigns for brands including Max Mara, Thom Browne and Vaquera.
The Dior spring 2024 ready-to-wear campaign. TINA BARNEY/COURTESY OF DIOR
Speaking last September, Chiuri said it was important to develop a critical eye, at a time when social media platforms pour out a torrent of images. “As a creative director, someone that works also with images, because I am part of this industry too, the risk is that I reproduce stereotypical ideas,” she added. “It’s also my responsibility.”
The campaign spotlights mostly monochrome looks, such as coats and apron dresses featuring pagan-style sun symbols and cobwebby knits with a Goth-girl vibe. Accessories include the Dior Toujours bag in a new, crinkled leather variation featuring an oversize cannage pattern, Diorebel lace-up boots and Adiorable pumps with gladiator straps.
Margot Populaire provided the creative direction for the campaign, which broke in print on Tuesday. It was styled by Elin Svahn, with Peter Philips in charge of makeup and Damien Boissinot doing hair.
The Dior spring 2024 ready-to-wear campaign. TINA BARNEY/COURTESY OF DIOR